Another City Village

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In the SE of the City is another little gem – Duddingston.  Reachable on a number of buses (we took the 44) it houses a beautiful garden, a fascinating church, a very old pub as well as a number of other historic references – some of which you can see on the plaque above.

Our exploration began in the charming Dr Neil’s Garden set above the loch and below the crags of Arthur’s Seat.  Dr Neil was actually a pair of Edinburgh doctors who transformed an old area grazed by cows into a beautiful hillside garden.  Filled when we went with colourful shrubs, wildflowers and spring bulbs, there is also a charming physic garden set out reflecting their interest in healing people.  Free to enter (donations welcome) there is a lovely café selling home made cakes and light lunches which is well worth a stop too.

Next stop is the 12th C Kirk alongside the gardens.  Although much altered and modernised there are still lots of visible elements of its past both inside and out.  The fine Norman arches are testament to the fine structure of the original building.  Sir Walter Scott was at one time an elder of the kirk and another famous member of the congregation was Mr Pinkerton who emigrated to America and founded the famous Pinkerton Detective Agency.  His family donated 3 stained glass windows to the Kirk which can be seen by going up onto the upstairs balcony.

 

Heading along a small side road near the Church, you reach the Sheep Heid Inn.

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Said to be one of the oldest Inns in Scotland there is evidence that a drinking establishment has been on this site since the 16th Century when King James presented a rams head to the landlord.  Today the interior dates from the 19th century but there are still wall mounted sheep’s heads on view.

Continuing a little further round the lane, you reach Prince Charlie’s cottage where Prince Charles Edward Stuart held his Council of War on the eve of the Battle of Prestonpans in 1745.

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If time had permitted we would have headed out into the park to the nature reserve where there are bird hides set up overlooking the loch, but we’ll save that for another day.

 

 

 

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A fishing village with remarkable food

A short bus ride north of Edinburgh  you find Newhaven, perhaps a little less well known than its near neighbour Leith, but just as easy to get to on any of several buses from the centre.

An historic fishing village built alongside its harbour

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it offers great walks along the breezy promenade where the views of Fife, the Forth and in the distance its bridges can be excellent.

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Newhaven Main Street is a little set back and its origins as the homes of fishermen are visible in its buildings, street names and burial ground.

The buildings on the wharf have been re-purposed and there are now 2 largeish “chain” restaurants,

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but far better in my opinion are the small local restaurants like The Lighthouse and another particular favourite  – Porto and Fi.  This small establishment does enormous breakfasts, light lunches and excellent early evening meals but today we just made time for coffee and home-made cakes.

Almost next door is a terrific local bakery that specialises in pies, cakes and our purchase – BridiesP1160038

but a place no-one should miss is back on the wharf where there is a fabulous seafood shop – Welch’s.  This is the sort of place that the top restaurants cite as their source of fresh fish and with good reason.  With a huge array of the freshest fish and shellfish and an equally enticing selection of smoked and cooked fish – it is almost impossible to choose from everything on offer.

 

We are going to eat well this Easter!

 

 

Out on the water

With the sun blazing under blue skies, we used our Itison voucher for a boat trip on the Forth to spend a day on the water.   We took the car, but could as easily have hopped on the train to Dalmeny to reach the lovely town of Queensferry.

Queensferry is an ancient Royal Burgh set on the Forth and today has a pretty main street with enticing shops, restaurants and cafes.  The harbour is for yachts rather than fishing boats and from both ends of the town, the skyline is dominated by its bridges.

There are 2 tour boats that depart from Hawes Quay – the Maid of the Forth

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and the Forth Belle – our choice

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The boat travels East along the Firth passing the oil terminal at Hounds Point – it may not sound beautiful but getting so close to a mega-tanker and watching it depart for China was quite a sight.

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Slowing carefully near buoys in the shipping channels, we got great views of seals sunning themselves.

and after about 90 minutes we approached the island of Inchcolm.

This island is home to lots of seabirds and migrants.  When we went there were several groups of Eiders bobbing around and puffins swimming offshore.  About 20 pairs will nest there in the summer.

It is also the site of a 12th century Augustinian monastery which is set between two picturesque sandy beaches.

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In the care of Historic Scotland, as members we were able to explore the island for free, if not, you can buy a pass on the boat.

Although a ruin, it is very interesting to visit and you can go up to the top of the tower for great views.

The island is also home to a lot of wartime structures when the Forth was a heavily defended area with its naval boatyards and critical ports for goods and munitions.

Just offshore is the island of “Gnome Holm” with an amusing array of gnomes!

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We returned on the next boat which arrives after about an hour and a half and apart from seeing more birds and seals, we also got a really good look from the Firth of all the bridges as we passed beneath them all before heading back to Queensferry..

The 19th century rail bridge is a UNESCO World Heritage site and with its rusty red appearance is an iconic sight.  There are plans to install a viewing platform on its southernmost cantilever with a walkway to allow you to climb up as you can on the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

The 20th century road bridge is a classic suspension bridge which is reaching the end of its useful life as it is experiencing traffic levels which way exceed its design specification.  It is also prone to regular closures in the winter due to high winds.  It will remain as an extra bridge for pedestrians, public transport and the emergency services once the new bridge opens this summer.

The 21st century bridge is called the Queensferry Crossing and is the largest 3 point cable-stayed bridge in the world.  It has a length of 2700 meters and should be far more reliable in high winds as it will have special baffling along both sides.

Finally we caught a glimpse of the new Aircraft Carriers being fitted out at Rosyth Dockyards.  The Queen Elizabeth II is due to begin testing in June and we will try to get a glimpse of her as she sails out to begin her sea trials.

Women’s voices at the Scottish Parliament

Today, we took a tour of the Scottish Parliament.  I can highly recommend this free tour as in an hour you will learn a lot about the building and how politics is conducted in Scotland.  It can be booked in advance on the Scottish Parliament website but at quiet times, you can just turn up.

This relatively new building incorporates lots of Scottish symbolism in its design.  The design concept by Spaniard Eric Mirales was drawn from Scotland’s land, people and seas.  The land is represented by the overall shape of a tree whose trunk extends from the edge of Holyrood Park into the building itself with the individual buildings resembling leaves when viewed from above.  The sea is evident in the design of the central area with a ceiling formed of shapes like the hulls of boats, people is incorporated by images within the building, on the walls of the debating chamber and in the “tenement”-like exterior of the MSPs office block.

Throughout the building there are specially commissioned pieces of art and the use of Scottish materials from Aberdonian granite to Dunbar cement and Scottish oak on the floor of the chamber.  There are further nods to the Edinburgh architectural vernacular in design details and the 17th century Queensberry House building has been imaginatively and seamlessly joined to the new structure.

The debating chamber is formed in a semi-circle to encourage debate and conversations not confrontations, and there is a sense of openness and visibility to so much of the building symbolising that it is there to serve the people.

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On the exterior the ironwork provides the leaf theme again and on the outside wall on the Canongate there are samples of stone from across Scotland, some inscribed with poems and words of Scottish authors or of relevance to the establishment of a parliament.

Travelling through the building, I was particularly enchanted by the ceramic sculpture called Travelling The Distance by Shauna  McMullan.  On 3 large panels, the words of 100 different Scottish women are shown.  These 100 sentences are mainly women talking about other women.  After getting the sentence, each woman was asked to suggest the next woman to be asked to contribute.  The panels show the individual handwriting of each woman.  The full transcript can be found via the Scottish Parliament website if you follow links to the building and its art.

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The sentences are very different

“At 10, she carried coal up ladders – distance exceeded height of St Paul’s daily”

“Confronted with the dusty skirting, she retorted “My mind’s on higher things!” and it was”

“An inspirational force in Scottish public life – she stands with the great but walks with us all.”

“Her legacy, the Open University, enables so many to fulfil their potential.”

but together are eloquent, thought-provoking, and the way it is done, you can almost hear the voices speaking aloud.

This sculpture is not in the main entrance area but on the ground floor beyond the stairs up to the viewing gallery of the debating chamber.  It can be visited whether you go on the tour or not as it is on the public side of the building.

Spring in the gardens

On the second warm sunny day this week, it seemed a perfect excuse to make a first visit to the Edinburgh Royal Botanic Gardens.  Founded in 1670 as a physic garden, it is now a varied and beautiful oasis in the Inverleithen area of the city.   Free to visit and with areas which will be at their best at different times in the year, we wanted to enjoy a glimpse of how it looked in early spring.

From its highest point above the Chinese garden “trek” you get a super skyline view of Edinburgh.

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but the joy is randomly wandering around the many pathways that take you through themed gardens such as the dry alpine zone,

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the upper woodland, with its giant redwoods,

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areas full of azaleas and rhododendrons which will peak in about a month

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or the meadow areas with their show of spring narcissi.

 

Sometimes we turned a corner and were assailed by spicy or sweet scents like this hammemelis.

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We wandered round by the glasshouses but decided that we would save visiting them until another day, perhaps when it was less sunny or warm!

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We then continued our walk via the Waters of Leith right down to the shore which added up to just about as perfect an afternoon as you could want.

Charlotte Square

At the Westernmost end of the originally conceived “New Town”, is a beautiful Square.  Leading from it, the wide thoroughfare of George Street with it’s high end shops, boutiques, cafes and hotels takes you to the other end of this phase of Edinburgh’s development at St Andrew’s Square.

Charlotte Square has a private garden at its centre.

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Which at this point in spring is edged with cheerful flowers.

This is surrounded on 4 sides by elegant Georgian Buildings, some much as they have always been, others re-purposed such as St George’s Church which now houses the Scottish Records Office.  The original design for the square was drawn up by Robert Adam who set certain parameters for the buildings to ensure an overall style. Individual owners could choose any architect they liked so the buildings have a subtle variety of styles within an overall Georgian context.  On the North side you will find the National Trust for Scotland’s Georgian House and next door, Bute House the official residence of the Scottish First Minister.

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As in my earlier post about Rutland Square, you’ll notice the elegant lamp posts outside this and other properties.  Unlike Rutland Square which was built at the point that gas lighting became common, when this area was built, candles and oil lamps were used indoors and when people went out, they were accompanied by boys carrying flaming torches.  If the owners visited another house, the torchbearer would extinguish his torch when they entered and await their departure before re-lighting it.  A bit like today where you see horrible marks of cigarettes being stubbed out on walls, the same problem existed then, though the “stubs” were rather larger.  This was solved by the expedient of providing a “snuffer” at doorways which meant that instead of stubbing the torch on a solid surface, it could be inserted into a funnel shaped appendage which quickly cut off the oxygen and extinguished the torch.

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these still exist outside most of the properties on Charlotte Square ….. another reason to keep your eyes open for the little things as you walk around.

Scotland’s Coal-mining Heritage

We had a wonderful day out at the Scottish Mining Museum in Newtongrange, just a few miles outside the ring road.  It is an easy trip by train from Waverley Station to the local station just a hundred yards from the site of the Lady Victoria colliery.

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For more information on visiting see http:/nationalminingmuseum.com/

Our particular interest was to find out more about the life of miners between about 1850 and 1950 as Bill’s immediate family and ancestors had all held roles within the mining industry – some on the coalface, others in roles on or around the mines of Lanarkshire.

There are some excellent display areas with interactive and audio enhanced exhibits showing life in the mining villages, key personalities from history, and the role of coal through the ages.  There are TV clips of the 1984 miner’s strike and mock ups of homes and street scenes.  Spread over 2 floors this is enough to while away a good couple of hours.  Add in an excellent café serving hearty home made soups and lunches or delicious home made cakes and it would make for a good trip.

However…..

the real story of this trip and the thing that will leave you astounded and wanting to come back is the tour of the pithead with ex-miners.

Our tour was with Tom Young and in his hands we learned so much more about life in the mining community, the story of the local mines and we went “underground” to really understand how a coalface was actually worked.

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Having visited the pit head area to see the cages which lowered the men into the pit and brought the coal back out, the checkweighman’s office and the equipment for shunting the coal around

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we took the lift down to the “coalface”.  We walked down a long dark cold passage hearing some of the noises you’d hear in a mine, we then saw how the coalface was cut and advanced in the most recent era – still a noisy, hard job even though the actual cutting into the coalface was done by machine.

Our final stop was the winding engine house.  This was where the mechanism was for winding the cages up and down.  The engineering was outstanding, though apart from the skill of the winchman, the main methodology for ascertaining whether the cages had arrived at exactly the right point top and bottom was a painted arrow and line which the winchman had to line up after each pull.  Every week these had to be re-drawn as the ropes stretched!

A final look round the washing yards, the locomotives and heavy machinery finished the tour.  We will be returning though to visit the archives to find out even more about Bill’s forebears and life in the coalmines of Scotland.